•
Alpha-hydroxy acids are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular plants e.g. Glycolic Acid
(Sugar Can), Lactic Acid (Milk) Tartaric Acid (Grapes), Citric Acid (Citrus Fruits), Malic Acid (Apples.) These acids are
able to improve the skin because they have molecule small enough to penetrate the epidermis.
• It is thought that AHAs
primarily affect the skin by normalizing cell turnover in the epidermis; this stimulates the formation of normal healthy skin,
which includes a sloughing of the stratum corneum, a decreased formation of dry scales on the skins surface and stimulation
of the cell cycle.
• Studies on cell cohesion
and skin pH changes indicate that keratin bonds may be affected and that low pH levels associated with active AHA solutions
may dissolve the desmosome protein linkages causing a burst in skin exfoliation. The result is a thinner stratum corneum which
is more flexible and compact, reflects more light and overall gives the skin a more youth appearance.
• There is also an increase
in Glycosaminoglycans (GAG's) which bind water to give a plumping moisturizing effect, and the stimulation of collagen synthesis
in the dermis. This may be the result of irritation resulting in a natural stimulation of new collagen,
• Ceramide levels are increased
as call turnover in increased, this improves the barrier.
There is a reduction in lines, pigmentation,
hyperkeratosis.
• The effectiveness of AHAs is dependent on the pH.
