Eyes / Eye Base
Eye Fix and Eye Base are shadow base. They are designed to smooth and
even the tone and texture of your eyelid, give you an even surface on which to apply your shadow, keep your shadow on longer
and help prevent creasing.
Tools:
Cosmetic Sponge
Dot a small amount of Eye Fix or Eye Base on the crease of
the eyelid and use a sponge to blend over the entire lid from the lash to the brows. (If you get creasing, you are using too
much.)
Step 2. Base Shadow
The Base Shadow is a light color that will help your eyes
look open and brighter. The color should blend with your skin tone. Flat, matte colors or colors with only a slight shine
work best. Look for colors on our Color Chart that are marked "Base" for the best selections.
Tools:
Shadow Sponge Brush
The Base Shadow should be applied to the inside 1/2 of the
lid, from the lash to the brow. Use the shadow sponge brush to apply.
For Close Set Eyes
Apply the Base Shadow on the entire lid, from the lash
to the brow.
Step 3. Contour Shadow
The Contour Shadow shapes and defines your eye. This is the
"color" part of the eye shadow. Browns, Greys and Plums are all suitable neutrals as well as colors that blend with your eyes.
If your eyes are more than one color (blue/gray, hazel, etc.) the color of shadow that you select will make the other
color more dominant (blue/gray eyes with blue shadow will look grayer). It is very important that this color be well blended.
You want an effect--not noticeable color. Because even dark colors are more sheer than in the past, you can also match your
clothing colors, if you desire, for a more upscale look (you still need to be sure the color is well blended). Look for colors
on our Color Chart that are marked "Contour" for the best selections.
Tools:
Angle Shader Brush or Small Sable Angle Brush to apply, Small Fluff Brush, Chisel Sable Fluff Brush or Maxi Blender Brush
to blend.
The Contour Color should be applied to the outside 1/2 of
the lid, from the lashes to half the distance to the brow. Color should not be applied in the crease.
For a Proportioned Lid
The shadow should end just over the crease.
For Small Lid/Large Brow
Take the shadow just a bit higher in the center, creating
a semicircle.
For Small Lid/Small Brow
Take the shadow just a bit higher on the outside, next
to the corner of the eye. Because your brow and lid are small, select a light contour color (too dark a color will close up
your eyes.)
For Large Lid/Small Brow
The shadow should stop before the crease.
For Close Set Eyes
Don't bring the Contour shadow in quite as much. It
should remain on the outer 1/3 of the lid. Use a lighter Contour Shadow to keep your eyes from looking closer together.
For Wide Set Eyes
Bring Contour Shadow a bit closer to the nose and be
sure to end the shadow inside the line that goes from the end of your eye to the end of the brow.
Use the Angle Shader Brush or Small Sable Angle
Brush to apply shadow directly where you want it.
Use the Small Fluff Brush, the Chisel Sable Fluff or the
Maxi Blender Brush (our personal favorite) in a circular and back and forth motion to blend out the edges of the color. You
can blend into the crease and over the entire lid.
Step 4. Highlight Shadow
The Highlight Shadow is a frosted color that dresses up your
eye. This is an optional step but only takes a second and adds interest and excitement to your eyes. The Highlight color helps
draw attention up and out, adds drama to your eyes and will also pick up colored flecks in your eyes and make your eyes look
brighter. Look for colors on our Color Chart that are marked "HiLite" for the best selections.
Tools:
Angle Shader Brush or Small Sable Angle Brush to apply, Small Fluff Brush, Chisel Sable Fluff or Maxi Blender Brush to blend.
Apply the Highlight Color on the brow bone, just under the
arch of the eyebrow, out to the outer edge. Use the Angle Shader Brush or Small Sable Angle Brush (our personal favorite)
to apply.
Use the Small Fluff Brush, the Chisel Sable Fluff or the
Maxi Blender Brush in a back and forth motion to gently blend the highlight color out. The more you blend, the less noticeable
it will be. For daytime use this shadow lightly, for evening use a much heavier hand.
Step 5. Accent Shadow
The Accent Shadow is a slight touch that adds depth and contrast
to your eyes. This can be the same color as the Contour Shadow (used again), a coordinating color or a contrasting color.
Look for colors on our Color Chart that are marked "Contour" for the best selections.
Tools:
Small Sable Angle Brush, Chisel Sable Fluff Brush or Maxi Blender Brush.
The Accent Shadow is applied in a thin line along the outer
1/2 of the lid, just on top of the lashes. In effect, you are reusing the Contour Shadow as a liner on top. This is softer
than an eye pencil and gently defines and accents the eye. Because the Contour Color was blended, it is softer. The Accent
Shadow should only be blended at the edges to prevent a "hard" line from forming. Use the Small Sable Angle Brush to lay color
across the top of the lashes.
Close-Set Eyes
If your eyes are close together, the Accent should only
be used on the outer 1/3.
Wide-Set Eyes
If your eyes are very wide-set, use it on the outer
2/3.
Varying Eye Colors
If your eyes are more than one color (blue/gray, hazel,
etc.) you can use one of the colors for the Contour and another for the Accent (hazel/green eyes can use a brown Contour and
a green Accent to bring out the other color).
Use the Chisel Sable Fluff Brush or Maxi Blender
Brush to soften the edges.
Step 6. Eye Liner
The newest eyes are softer and require less heavy liner application.
The Eye Pencil defines your eyes and makes them a focal point for your face. Use a color to match your eyes or blend with
your shadow. Unless you have very dark skin and eyes (or for evening) don't use black eyeliner. It is very harsh looking and
the new make-up is softer.
Tools:
A good metal sharpener, Q-tip, if necessary.
Apply the Eye Pencil in a thin line under the bottom lashes
from the outer edge to the point where your lower lashes end, near the nose. You'll get a better line with a fairly sharp
eye liner. (Use a metal sharpener to get an edge, without chewing up your pencils.) Smudge the line with the cap of the eye
pencil to slightly soften it. If your line is too wide, brush a Q-Tip gently over it to narrow the line. Repeat the process
for the top of the lashes. You can work from the outer edge to the inner edge or vice versa, whichever is more comfortable,
but it is sometimes easier to apply eye liner if you do it in short dashes rather than try to draw a straight line. Top with
Eyeliner Sealer (use the Eyeliner brush or a q-tip) for longer lasting liner.
Step 7. Powder Eye Liner - Alternate
The newest eyes are softer and require less heavy liner application.
You can achieve this look using powder liner. Select a color from the Eye Shadows that is marked Contour/Liner for best results.
Cake liner can give you soft light definition for daytime and heavier, more dramatic definition for night or an upscale look.
Select a color that is darker than your eyes (but the same color) or a contrasting color for more definition. You can also
combine powder liner with a pencil--using the pencil underneath for definition and the powder liner to soften the look and
enhance the drama of your eyes.
Tools:
Eyeliner Brush or Deluxe Liner Brush (preferred), Q-Tip for touch-ups, if necessary.
Slightly dampen the Eyeliner Brush or Eye Definer Brush in
Eyeliner Sealer. Dip into the edge of your liner color and then gently lay the color on top of your lashes. Apply in a thin
line under the bottom lashes from the outer edge to the point where your lower lashes end, near the nose. If your line is
too wide, brush a Q-Tip gently over it to narrow the line. Repeat the process on the top of the upper lashes. You can work
from the outer edge to the inner edge or vice versa, whichever is more comfortable.
Step 8. Shimmer Dust or Creme Highlighter
The Shimmer Dusts and Creme Highlighters dress up your eyes
for evening or a more upscale look. It is an easy "day-to-evening" conversion.
Tools:
Chisel Sable Fluff Brush, Small Fluff Brush or Maxi Blender Brush (for Shimmer Dust). Camouflage Lip/Eye or Camouflage Oval
8 Brush (for Creme Highlighter).
After applying your regular shadow, use a brush to lightly
dust Shimmer Dust over your entire lid. (HINT: You can also use the maxi blender brush or blush brush to dust a small amount
on the top of your cheek bones, dust lightly over your lipstick or to add a touch into your cleavage or on the tops of your
shoulders for evening.) If you have drier lids and prefer something less drying than the Shimmer Dusts but still like the
look, the Creme Highlighters offer moist shimmer for the lids (and other places). Use the Camouflage Oval 8 Brush (best) or
Camouflage Lip/Eye Brush to place Highlighter where you want it.
Step 9. White Eyeliner Pencil
The White Eyeliner Pencil brightens and lightens the eyes
and adds a dramatic touch. Especially effective for an upscale look or for "day-to-evening."
Tools:
A good metal sharpener for a sharp point to give a very fine line, Q-tip, if necessary.
Apply the White Eyeliner Pencil in a thin line outside your
regular eyeliner, for a dramatic look or use inside your regular liner to brighten eyes.
Progress Check
Your eyes should dominate your face (they'll appear very dark, until you apply the rest of your make-up).
Clean up any shadow flakes on your cheeks using a Q-tip (dip it Eye Make-up Remover for an instant eraser). Be sure your shadow
doesn't go outside the eye area. If you draw an imaginary line from the outer corner of your eye to the end of your brow,
you shadow should not go beyond that.
To Dress The Eyes Up for Evening
Use a darker Contour Shadow for evening or use the same color
and apply a little more (you can do darker colors because lights are softer and you'll want a little more drama for evening).
Use a brighter Highlight Color for evening. After applying the Contour and Highlight and blending, use a brighter Accent Shadow.
Then reapply the Highlight color lightly over the entire lid and do not blend, or use the Shimmer Dust or Creme Highlighter
to dress up the eye. This will reflect light and add a slightly upscale look when used for evening. Your eye liner should
be slightly heavier and just barely smudged for more definition and add drama and brightness using the White Eyeliner Pencil
outside your eye liner.
Be sure your brows are even and stray brows are tweezed.
Your brow should be slightly arched to further open your eyes.
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